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1995, Volume 1, No.2, Pages24-33

 ORIGINAL ESSAYS:

VICTOR SHKLOVSKY

SENTIMENTAL JOURNEY

     In late autumn in St. Petersburg I happened to meet one Aissor I knew before.   I guess you know little swarthy people sitting with shoe brushes in the hands on street corners everywhere in Russia. It is them again who you see walking around the place with a tamed monkey held in leash. They look old and gray like cobblestones in the street. These are Aissors, or highland Assyrians.

     As I once was walking in the street I decided to give my shoes a good shine. I came up to a man who was sitting on the corner on a low chair with cut down legs and placed my foot on his box without looking.

     It was not very cold yet that day but I was having my warm Russian hare's fur cap " on so I surely was sweat and hot

I had one shoe polished. I Shklovsky the man calls me by my name as I took my cap off. "

Shklovsky he said again and put his brushes down on the ground.

     I recognized him at once. It was an Aissor Lazar Zervandov by name. He used to head an Assyrian horse-drawn battery in Northern Persia.

I looked around. Everything around was quiet. Only four black horses erected on the Anichkoff Bridge breaking loose in different directions.  Aissors or Assyrians as is known inhabit Mesopotamia and Van region in Turkey, Dilman and Urmia in Persia, and Russian Trans Caucasia. They generally fall into Maronites and Jacobites living now near the place where. Ancient Nineveh was founded, and now the town of Mosul (this is - where Muslin comes from), and also into Aissors from mountains whom Persians inadequately call "Jelu" (in fact "Jelu" is just one of the Assyrian tribes) and into Persian Aissors.

     According to their religious conception highland Aissors belong to Nestorians, for they never believe in Jesus like god while Maronites and Jacobites adopted catholic faith. Different missionaries from Anglican, Baptist, capture the region of Urmia and catholic Churches orthodox and Protestant activists, all of them are hunting for old Christian albeit heretic souls of Aissors.

     High in the mountains Aissors have no missions. They live in villages governed by the clergymen. Several villages constitute a tribe or clan headed by Melik (prince). All Meliks respect the authority of Patriarch Mar-Shimun.

     Patriarch's role belongs to one tribe only that descends directly from Simone, brother of God.

     In January 1918 Russian started for home.

     Aissors’ homeland was in Persia.  Those who were from Turkey decided to stay in Persia as well, for fear of being killed by Kurds.  Aissors formed an army unit. Before the revolution Russians had two' Assyrian battalions in their army. Some Aissors did not join those battalions but formed an independent partisan brigade headed by one very matured and experienced man, Agha-Petros.

     I remember how I saved this man pulling him from soldiers of a border guard C', unit who wanted to kill him.

Poor old Agha-Petros! Shall we meet some day again somewhere in the east! For east stretches now from Pskov in Russia through India towards Borneo, Sumatra, Java"" and Australia at the whole length.

     The English colonists had just placed the famous duckbill in the jar of spirit and turned Australia into a perfect shape of the western society. No, never I will see Agha-Petros again. I just will have to die without it in Nevsky Avenue across the cathedral of Kazan. Those words I wrote them in St. Petcrsburg. Now the place of my funeral actually will not be the same as I surely die in this flying coffin of the underground.

     Agha-Petros was a robust man with a very big chest somehow bulging with a fresh cleaned first order St. George medal.

He once brushed shoes in New York. He most probably was the one to be seen walking with his monkey in Buenos-Aires.

     Anyway he did his time the Philadelphia jail.

     Then in his homeland he was a highwayman, then a vice governor in Turkey where he almost stripped the land, then some big shot in Persia. One day he got angry with the governor of Urmia, he put him under arrest held him in a cold cellar and set him free after he exchanged Shah for a star medal.

     In the Russian service he headed a small partisan brigade. The Russian soldiers moved out very fast leaving a lot of guns and ammunition behind. Aissors began to arm themselves. Armenians began to form army squads, too. Both soon began to strip Persians of their arms.

     Every party wanted to settle old scores with everybody else. During the first withdrawal of Russian troops from Persia in 1914 local Persians killed many Aissors for their support and assistance on the Russian side. Aissors found a shelter with Dr. Shedd inside the American mission, then Persians slipped crushed glass and metal sawdust into the flour from which Americans were making bread for refugees, all the people died like fish in a very little pond by bomb blasting. 

     Agha-Petros partisans contributed a lot to the feud between Aissors and Persians for Russians never supplied them any bread so they had to take food by force. As they largely were people from very strange places, partisans liked to show up in the market place in a combat outfit wearing patchwork pants wish a bomb tucked behind a leather belt. So young mothers told their children in fear, “Look! Here’s the death walking.”

     As for me, if I were there I would surely have butted in to fight for Aissors, and I do not know why? Maybe, because I very often check to see Turkish cannons in the monument of glory in Izmailovsky? Turks would certainly have destroyed me for a purpose. When Russians were retreating, there was a big fight. It is as when the last Russian squads were on a march, Persians came on attacking them, but were intercepted by Aissors instead. Aghas-Petros (now I remember his name -Elov) positioned his batteries on the side of the Jews hills outside the town of Urmia and destroyed it. As a matter of fact Aissors know how to use commanding heights.

    On the Persian side did Russian instructors train Persian Cossacks and who were the most essential instrument in the Persian counter-revolution. In the fights mentioned above they did not act like supporters 01 the Shah party but like the representatives of the nation. It was colonel Solider who headed Persians in the battle.

     He had a great influence in the Shah court. Colonel Kondratjev led Armenians and Aissors with a group of Russian army officers who decided to serve in the new Assyrian army.   Many of them are still in Mesopotamia. They all are scattered allover the world like, blood drops sipping through the ground. Persians were defeated. Solider and his daughter were seized and murdered.

     Aissors took over the Persian guns. Heavy guns were used. Some 40-50 shells were fired to destroy the village. Persian villages were made from clay. 30.000 guns or so were confiscated. Then Kurd Simko said, "Mar-Shimun come over and get me, I just want to surrender."

     Kurd Simko was holding the Kushin mountain pass between Urmia and Oilman. Kurds were always stateless and lived in kinship and tribal communities, headed by Khans. Kurd Simko was not a Khan by birth. He took his Khan's authority by art. He was so smart that he even- left behind the former great prince Nikolaj Nikolaevich who wanted to win support from some Kurds. Simko were supplied with guns and shells, and so won even a higher position.

Simko fooled us all along. Because of him we lost our hay in Oise Gewer. He promised us camels but he never did. He was not afraid of us already. He boasted that only 40 Kurds would make a Russian troop vanish in haste. Agha-Petros very often suggested we attack this Kurd in winter because his tribe would die of cold if we got them out of their homes and chased them in the mountains. Simko wrote to Mar-Shimun. "Come over and take my guns."

     Mar-Shimun took with him a best couple of squadrons and his brother and started out to see the Kurd. When the convoy was inside the court of Simko, Mar-Shimun and his brother went into the house. Kurds were seen climbing up the rooftops with guns in their hands.

     Aissors, wonder what Kurds were doing. They said they were afraid of Aissor. Why with guns? They never said anything; Then Mar-Shimun's brother came out of the house. He was very angry as he said, "We should not have come here to see this wretched man. We see no good here for us. We'd better go home if we want to stay alive. " But Patriarch was here, they could not leave him alone.

     So Aissors elected to stay. Actually these words are not mine, but Lazar's, the shoe polisher on the Caravan Street, the horse-drawn battery commander and the soldiers committee member, the Bolshevik in the mind. Later he called around to enjoy some tea with me in my place.  He was collected as he came. We were in session then. Zervandov took off his heavy overcoat and sat to the table. He was having his tea. He refused to taste butter because he was feasting at the time. Then he addressed to my friend, "Shklovsky does belong here, doesn't he?" I think I was looking too exotic for him in St. Petersburg. Then Lazar takes the floor again: "Mar-Shimun come out soon running and cursing."

Just as instructor officer Vasiljev ordered Aissors to mount, Kurds began to fire from the rooftops everywhere using even a submachine gun. Some horses broke away, the gunmen began to shout, and everything was a big mess. Some men rushed to gallop away, the rest froze to stay.

     Lazar was left behind, as his horse got frightened. So he was the last to gallop. Here came Patriarch running for his life across the street filled up with slime and I mud. So he went on running in the mud without a gun. He actually was bleeding from a shoulder as he was wounded in the upper chest. It was not a heavy wound. He might have been cured in the end.

     "Lazar", -he said trying to catch the horse's stirrup, -"they are fools, they chucked me there." Lazar just wanted to take him on but he saw Patriarch fall on his back with a shot in his head. 'Kurds kept on firing from the rooftops. The guns volleyed on one side only. Lazar spurred his horse to go faster as the rest of the convoy made its way back cutting through Kurds. On the outskirts Lazar's horse fell under him as he was wounded. The one who is sitting now on the Nevsky corner across from the so-called house of arts selling boot cream also stayed alive but badly wounded though.

     They all arrived at an Aissor village to say that Patriarch was slain. The people did not believe them at first but as they saw the wounds they came to believe. They rushed to the town of Urmia where they gathered 15.000 to fight Simko. They arrived far after midnight as the road stretched high in the mountains and was winding with pitfalls around. Just as they reached the place, they started to look for the body. They searched till they found it. He was stripped naked but not disfigured as if Kurds had failed to identify him. Kurds kept on shooting in the meantime. By the morning Aissors devastated the village killing everyone on sight. But Simko had vanished. He obviously used the very old trick. When he was finding his way in a secret passage, his gunmen were busy picking up the gold pieces he had scattered for them outside. Mar-Shimun was rather short than tall. He wore a turban and a frock and on his finger a very old Arabian cross that was dated as he put it, to the 4th. A.D. He had ruddy cheeks and the eyes of a child, flashing teeth and white hair and yet he was only 22.

     He used to fight in the line on the battlefield. He only complained, about the French rifle which aissors had for it was not very useful in close combat. He had a heart of gold! When we started our retreat, he asked for our light and heavy guns (in all we gave him some 40 heavy guns) and the rank of a junior officer for all his Meliks or the right to give it. For himself he wanted a car. I wish we had given him a car. I think the shoulder straps would have looked very strange amidst the crowd of people dressed in very loose trousers made from patchy calico and tied up with a simple rope above the knee. What a sight it would have been after all.

     It is not Lazar's words, it is mine, and So, Mar-Shimun was lost for Aissors anyway. Snow in the passes sometimes is so thick and heavy that the camel strides with difficulty. But snow had melted already. Turks sipped through the passes in the mountains and approached the town of Urmia. Colonel Kondratyev with mounted Aissors and Armenians used a roundabout way to get in to Turkish rear and seized two battalions. The situation was getting better as it seemed. Lazar was complaining to me about Agha-Petros, "Hardly I had reached for the Persians I found the gunmen of Agha-Petros already there, I guess he scooped out much gold there indeed."   As he went on his complaint: “Agha-Petros was too hot on gold as he declared he had 3.000 gunmen ten times more than he could dispose. His front line was long enough for Turks to break through."

    There was a horse-drawn battery in the mountains. The soldiers went to the river to wash in the morning. They saw mules and packs across the river.  And they saw people coming to the river to wash as well. It was Turks. The people feared each other there down the river.  If Aissors could see how Turks had passed through the gorge under them by night, they would have beaten the Turks with stones.

     Anyway Turks went through. Aissors had no shells for their heavy guns. We tried to send all our artillery parks to Russia, but we had to dump them somewhere on the road, as we saw no use in them. The fire supplies that were left we used lavishly against the Persians who occupied the villages somewhere. We could not find a direct way back to Russia as Turks who were advancing on Tiflis interrupted it. They decided to go to English headquarters in Baghdad. All Aissors as well as Armenians set out on a journey. Stepanyants, a Russian Armenian who was a student from St. Petersburg, headed Armenians then he became an army officer and served for some time the chairman of the army committee.

     While in Persia he quickly learned to be a perfect leader of the mass. His wife, a Russian medical student was with him all the time. Some 250.000 people with children and women left the town of Urmia. The Russian squad was going in front of the column; Aissors checked the rear while highland Aissors were on the watch on the flanks. As a matter of fact there was no road, but a path stretching along the Turkish front line, or more exactly along the mountain ridges across the Turkish and Kurdish territories.

     Therefore on the way the refugees were endangered to face the angry Muslim army squads trying to take the poor people at their disadvantage to attack them every moment of their dangerous journey using to the best the local terrains and heights they knew better. Then the refugees went on further to the east as far as the duckbill land. In the meantime the Checks were approaching the Volga River from the east. From the west the Russians were coming to fight the checks while highlanders came down to attack the Cossacks in the valley.

     In the Mediterranean Sea a ship packed with Senegalese soldiers who had been fighting in Germany was bound to reach the African shores. Probably they were singing. As they went on singing they probably were thinking. I do not know what they were thinking of, because I am not a black man you know. Let them speak for themselves anyway. There was great bloodshed in the whole east from the Irtysh River to Euphrates.  But Aissors kept on moving, as they were great people. They overcame the gorges and climbed .up the mountains. They had run out of water. So they had to eat snow for 12 days. The horses were being lost.

Then the remaining horses were given to the young men. They should have tried to save the common people instead.

And then they dumped the old women. Then they abandoned the children. In a month they reached the English- controlled Baghdad region. In total there were 203.000 people who had arrived on the set. British officials said, "Encamp yourself here outside our territory for three days." Aissors came to stay in a Persian village. It was a quiet day. The Turks fell on them the following night, and Persians began to fire from rooftops.

     The English squads sent out to meet and guard the people for the first time saw how women and children cried as Turks were shooting on sight. When there was a big turmoil in the camp, the English soldiers jumped on their un-harnessed horse and galloped away. Colonel Kondratyev ordered to use submachine guns against them as if they were enemies. The runaway soldiers had to stop.

     They were told, "if you came to help us so do it or else we'll kill you for we've been walking the least passable road in the

Region. Everybody in the east knows there's no pathway between Urmia and Hammadan. And we walked this way with women and children. In case you leave us alone, we'll shoot you all down here. For we only have been eating snow." The English soldiers dismounted from their horses and stood up to fight. There was a big fight. Persians were ousted from the village while Turks were encircled and chased into the gorge where they were all destroyed. The Turkish general was seized after all.

     They said to him, "Why you told them to take our children and throw them to the ground. Why we lost our homes? Now we're going to shoot you." The English troopers said, "You can't shoot the prisoner." Aissors said, "We took him captive, he's ours."

The general did not say anything. He was murdered after all, but Aissors did not cut his ears or hew off his head, because among Aissors where the people from Russia and they also had Lazar, the Bolshevik. Then Aissors went into the British territory.

There they learnt that another Aissors troop was coming up from America, where they are plenty in number and have two newspapers.

     When American Aissors learned about continuous fights everywhere from Oramar to Urmia they gave up their shoe brushes and closed down their stalls and shops and bought them guns and shells for the gold and left out to fight for the independence of their motherland.   If these people lived somewhere on the Volga river and were starving, they would go to reach India.

     That's because aissors were the great nation indeed. The American Aissors squads were being much waited for.

     The people decided to go and stay with English colonists in Nineveh where ancient Assyria was flourishing before, more exactly in the region of Mosul. It is said in those places there are such types of snakes, which bite so hard killing a man by even piercing him at all.

     Apes in the forests and some yeti people in the wild places, and the heat is so hard to bear that even sweat never dries.

     In the basement of the houses with stone brick walls and doors, in the cellars filled with earth there are trunks full of precious stones.  Therefore the English searchers came to seize them. Lazar could not attend the excavations. He had been arrested for he was an active Bolshevik.

     Some more Russian soldiers and officers were taken captive. In the prison they were thinking why they had suffered so much before they came into the British-controlled territory. Everything seemed in vain. Lazar actually had on him a very nice _army jacket with an officer's shoulder straps. Unusually oversized. He was taken for a general at the beginning. He was accommodated in a single room to his own. He asked for spoons and plates for everyone in the custody in his special note. They supplied everything he wanted. Besides, he got some money from the captors. The prisoners said nothing but laughed a lot. On the fifth day a Russian officer from the British service came by and after some inspection he pointed out, "You're not a general, you're just an officer." But Lazar said, "Why shouldn't I stay a general in custody as they want it?" At first he was sent to the punishment room, but then he was sent to exile, and set free after all. He was even ordered to leave for Russia.

     Assyrians as a matter of fact is a nation of wanderers. Mar-Shimun has to enjoy a title of "Patriarch of the East and India." It is true indeed because historical chronicles say that it is the 7th century when Aissors began to wander allover the world. They traveled in Japan, India, Malabar and Turkistan on the border with China. The print they used became the organizing instrument for every known language systems in Mongolia and Korea.  Aissors funeral tombs could well be found near the, town of Tobolsk. Aissors obviously as it feels now had a special message in the world. Today they go on wandering in the world as shoeblacks.

     Lazar had nothing left lo do but gather his family and move to Armavir where he met a nice company of Aissors to travel to Moscow and then to St. Petersburg. Indeed, there is quite a large community of Aissors including Lazar, the interpreter to Mar-Shimun or Hosha- Alexander locally. Besides, there is even one Assyrian from Mar-Shimun clan in St. Petersburg. He never brushes shoes but sits on the bed to read a newspaper. Lazar stations on the comer of Nevsky and Caravan streets. It is cold in St. Petersburg. The wind blows down there in Nevsky Street. It also blows cold into Caravan Street. So it does from the east as much as from the west, and there is nothing in the world but the wind. It is time to wind it up. I am going to write now about Dr. Shedd. He was the American counselor in Urmia.

     Dr. Shedd traveled across the region of Urmia in a carriage. It had four similar wheels and tent above. It was very simple by design, square like a box. Maybe it was the principle transportation means in America some twenty years ago.  Dr. Shedd himself steered this carriage sitting on the front bench on the right hand side of the vehicle. In the back seat he had his gray haired wife or his daughter with a mess of her red hair. Nothing special was about his wife' or his daughter.  As a matter of fact Dr. Shedd had gray hair as well. He usually was dressed in a black frock-coat."  He was no special again as seemed.  In fact he never installed either a flag or even a submachine gun.

     Dr. Shedd lived outside the town of Urmia where a long clay wall of the American mission stretched a few miles ahead. Inside the walls of the American mission there was American law and order. Nothing was easy outside though. This carriage was seen rolling across in all of north Persia and Kurdistan.

     I first saw Dr. Shedd at a session when we were asking Persians for wheat supplies. It was in December 1917. Mullahs in green turbans were sitting calmly stroking their long beards with their fingers of painted nails gently voicing their refusal. The stoutly built logistics controller of the Russian army general Karpov bulging out of his shabby army coat was gentle alike but firm on getting some wheat supplies for Aissors, anyway. And he had his nails bitten off. The Russian counselor Nikitin (he was slain later during the retreat) looked very worried. Dr. Shedd in his black frock coat showed up among us very suddenly. Like a black column there he stood in the middle of the scene with his clean and fluffy hair. I was having a seat in the corner of the room in my very shabby service jacket. I was wearing my old raincoat with dirty sleeves that day. Therefore I had to hide it with my hands after all. My fur coat in fact was lost in the time of pogrom. At the meeting I stuck out like a false mast. This mast usually is installed in the ship after the storm in a firm tie-up to the remnants of the original one. I was a commissar of the army at the time. All my life was a good patchwork of my habits. Dr. Shedd said," Gentlemen! Yesterday I saw a dead boy, 6 years old, he was lying still by the wall on the market place." Not only Robinson Crusoe would look strange if he was brought into a London street from his desert island in his rough like he was. So much odd was Dr. Shedd in his garments counting corpses in the east where it never was a rule.

     I once remember watching a caravan on the path to the Kuschin gorge. The camels were walking in long steps. They looked like greyhounds wearing heavy packs on their backs. The little bells were ringing under their muzzles. Trotting horses on the side harmoniously overlapped the steady stride of the camels. I said,"what's the load?" They answered, "Silverware for doctor Shedd.” No convoy or escort was seen. Silverware's were coming to Dr. Shedd continuously, and nobody ever dared to put a finger in the pie for he was the giver and there were too many of them to give. Yes, it is a misery indeed to eat the charity bread and climb the stairs for a low bow. This is how miserable were the people in lines for charity at the house of scientists as well. The checks sugar was bitter sweet. So much bitter smelled a smoke coming from my home furnace, the smoke of disappointment. But anyway the wooden stairs of Berlin are steeper and harder to climb indeed. I am here writing this down on the playing table.

     I remember a scene where charity bread was given out somewhere in the town of Urmia. A big crowd of Kurds almost naked in rugs was in line for the bread. Beside the distributor of the food there was someone with a heavy whip in his hand to hold the crowd around. When Russians left Persia, Aissors and Armenians were unprotected. It was their destiny. If someone is starving and he cannot get food anywhere, he is fated to die after all. But Russians did leave out. Aissors were fighting like a fierce beast biting at the headlights of a car.

     When Turks had them encircled, they broke through the ring and rushed towards the British controlled territory near Baghdad. They marched on through the mountains in haste so that their horses were dumped and children and packs abandoned. As collectively known the abandoning of children is a common thing in the East." Who knows it? Actually I do not know who picks up the news and spreads it. If the ill fate works, the abandoned children will die anyway.

     Then Dr. Shedd prepared his vehicle and raced after the marching people. But what could one man do after all? Aissors were breaking through mountains anyway. As a matter of fact there are no pathways or passages, and the ground is covered with rocks and stones as if it had been raining stones. The horse would run down its shoes on these rocks over a hundred miles. When in 1918 winter there was a terrible famine, people were dying in rooms with frozen walls, corpses were too hard to bury. Mourning began afterwards in spring. Spring came like always with lilac and nights in white satin. Mourning ever started with spring again because it was bitter cold in winter. Aissors started to cry for their children when they came into Nineveh and the soil under their feet became softer and flat. There was a general mourning cry in St. Petersburg, too. Russia would begin to cry some day after the ice had melted. There was a dispute between highland, and Urmian aissors. Actually they had never fought before. But in 1918 winter again people never hated each other as they even cuddled up together to keep out cold. They did it till springtime. The Aissors from Urmia wanted to go back and take revenge on the Kurd Simko, the killer of Aissors.

     As they abandoned their children on the go, they knew Simko was coming after. The Aissors of highlands had become casual about it. They were exhausted. They were just unable to repeat the journey. Moreover they felt like being at home in the world near Nineveh. Turks had gone away. Aissors were only fighting with Kurds. For them Persians is never a serious threat. The Urmian Aissors were marching very quickly. Simko vanished back to Tavriz.

     Aissors closed every way out for him. Tavriz is a big city, so there are many doors in clay walls of the streets. The population is counted in Persia by the amount of the doors found in the streets. These are low profile doors with wooden latches, but nobody knows what is there behind. Aissors would ever know it anyway. This is when Dr. Shedd started to prepare his vehicle. It was a black colored vehicle of yellow wheels. He had to come through the armed Aissors to reach the town of Tavriz. He was in a cladding of his black frock coat again.

     Dr. Shedd brought back before the Aissors three thousand and five hundred exhausted children he had picked up as he was after the runaway people. Their clothes were torn and their hearts burnt for it is not only the privilege of the horses to run down their shoes. Dr. Shedd handed the children over to their fathers and took Simko right by his side on his transport and rode him to Baghdad for a British trial.  Nobody stood in his way. No, I should not have written those words. But I warmed up my heart though it still hurts me. I feel sympathy for Russia. Who will show Russians how to place striped packs on camel’s backs and to tie up lengthy caravans with a woolen rope to watch them over across deserted open spaces of the Volga river basin?

     Dr. Shedd! Listen I am a man from the East for the East begins at Pskov and further on as far as the three oceans.

    Dr. Shedd! You know how bitter it is to be in exile. Dr. Shedd Listen I minced like a mouse through spaces with a company of soldiers to reach St. Petersburg. I was amidst the crowd of weary soldiers coming back home after their captivity in Germany. In the carriage of the train we were riding in there alongside empty coffins with captions like this "coffins to return". And now I live amidst immigrants and I myself would soon become like a shadow with them.

     The Berlin Schnitzel smells sour to me. I lived in St. Petersburg in 1918 to 1922. In your name, Dr. Shedd, and in the name of doctor Gorbenko who did not allow the violent crowd in Herson to slay the wounded Greeks, as well as in the name of the unknown driver who once asked me to go and save machines, I would rather finish this book.